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New Caledonia Travel Tips
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Overview
New Caledonia consists of the Mainland, the Isle of Pines to the south of the Mainland, the Loyalty Islands to the east of the Mainland (Maré, Lifou, Tiga and Ouvéa), the Belep Archipelago in the northwest, and numerous islands and islets (Huon & Surprise, Christfield, Walpole, Beautémps-Beaupré, Astrolabe and the Bellona reef); a total surface area of 19,000 sq km (16,372 for the Mainland alone, which is 400km long). The Mainland is divided by a range of mountains (Châine Centrale), the highest points of which are Mount Pancé in the north (1629m) and Mount Humboldt in the south (1618m). Various species of trees can be found here. This unusual relief divides the Grande Terre/Mainland into the East coast (humid and open to trade winds; fertile and exotic with lush tropical vegetation) from the West coast (dry and temperate; filled with niaouli trees, cattle and beautiful beaches).
History
Discovered by Europeans in 1766, New Caledonia has been a French colony since 1853. It became a French Overseas Territory in 1946. From time to time, attempts have been made by the indigenous population to free themselves from French rule. The most serious of these was the Kanak Revolt of 1878, which was only subdued after a guerrilla campaign lasting for more than a year. In recent years, intermittent conflicts have flared up between the Melanesians and the French, reflecting the widely differing attitudes that exist towards the various plans for self-government. The majority of Kanaks (Melanesians) now support the Front de Liberation Nationale Kanak et Socialiste (National Kanak Socialist Liberation Front, FLNKS) created in 1984 and led, until his assassination in 1989, by the charismatic Jean-Marie Tjibaou. The Front is the largest party backing independence, which remains the overriding political issue in the territory. The French-descended settlers (caldoches) mostly back the Gaullist center-right party, Rassemblement pour une Caledonie dans la France (Rally for Caledonia in France, RPCR), which is strongly anti-separatist. Both sides have adopted an uncompromising position on independence. In France itself, the traditional consensus between Gaullists and Socialists on colonial matters has broken down as regards New Caledonia, although both parties recognize the strategic importance of the island for nuclear testing. Tjibaou is thought to have been killed along with his deputy by former FLNKS militants, because of his acceptance of the Matignon Accord.
This agreement – strongly opposed by hard-liners in both camps – had been negotiated by Tjibaou, RCPR leader Jacques Lafleur and then French Prime Minister Michel Rocard, in 1988. It allowed for the division of New Caledonia into three distinct regions, each of which would elect a Provincial Assembly to handle internal administration, until the holding of a national referendum, not later than the end of 1998, to decide the issue of independence once and for all. If a vote in favor was returned, New Caledonia might expect to become independent around 2015/2020. The Accord also allowed for the training of Kanaks (largely excluded from official posts) in public administration, a program of economic development and various institutional reforms. The referendum was held in November 1998 and produced a vote of 70 per cent in favor of independence. However, since then, the two main parties and the French government have been engaged in a complex and often devious political struggle, which has persuaded many Kanaks that Paris had no intention of allowing the colony to become independent. Moreover, during the 1990s, New Caledonia’s economic difficulties led to a growth of labor unrest and the assumption by local trade unions of the major role in the campaign to reform New Caledonia’s social and economic system and achieve independence. The present government, elected in May 1999, is an uneasy alliance of the RCPR (the largest party), FLNKS representatives and a handful of others.
Government
Following administrative reforms introduced after the Matignon Accord, New Caledonia is governed by three Regional Assemblies: Southern Region (32 members), Northern Region (15 members), and Loyalty Islands (seven members). Together these form a Territorial Congress, headed by the High Commissioner. The High Commissioner is advised by an eight-member ‘Consultative Committee’ selected from leading figures on the island.
Economy
The mainstays of the country’s economy are mining, tourism and, to a lesser degree, agriculture and fishing. The agricultural sector produces cereals, fruit and vegetables, as well as copra and coffee for export. The fishing industry trawls primarily for shrimp and tuna, the bulk of which is sold to Japan. A small light-industrial sector has grown up in the last two decades, producing building materials, furniture and processed foods, largely for domestic consumption. In the mining sector, New Caledonia is the world’s largest producer of nickel after Canada and the USA, and has about one-quarter of the world’s known deposits; this generates 90 per cent of the country’s export revenue. There are also deposits of cobalt, iron, manganese, lead and zinc. Tourism is the major service industry and remains the most dynamic sector in terms of economic development.
Subventions from France are essential to the territory’s economic well-being. And, by virtue of its link with France, New Caledonia is an Associate Member of the EU. France is the largest trading partner, accounting for approximately half of all imports and exports, followed by Australia, Germany, Japan and the USA.
Wheather
Warm, subtropical climate. The cool season is from April to August and the hottest period is from September to March. The main rains are between January and March. The seasons are less defined on the east coast than the west. Climate is tempered by trade winds.
Required clothing
Tropical lightweights, with jackets and sweatshirts for evenings.
Dinning
The choice of eating places and food on New Caledonia is excellent; costs vary from moderate to expensive. Gourmet restaurants and bistros serve African, Chinese, French, Indonesian, Italian and Spanish cooking. Dishes include Pacific spiny lobsters, prawns, crabs or mangrove oysters and salads of raw fish (marinated in lime juice). An island specialty is bougna: fish or chicken wrapped in banana leaves and cooked on hot stones covered with sand. First-class delicatessens and grocers in Nouméa and at Anse Vata Beach provide a wide choice of picnic fare. There is a good selection of French wine available.
Nightlife
There are plenty of discos and also two casinos, situated in the Anse Vata area. Nightclubs in Nouméa are lively with both European and local floorshows. There are also several cinemas, which show French films.
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