Wellington
In the south of the North Island, Wellington, New Zealand’s capital, occupies the flat area surrounding the harbor basin and climbs the surrounding steep hillsides overlooking the water. This makes it a compact metropolis with a thriving and lively heart. The city is a center of culture, arts, restaurants, theater, fashion and nightlife. Shopping facilities are excellent and hotels offer splendid views of the bay. Every two years, Wellington hosts the New Zealand International Festival of the Arts, the country’s main cultural event including street theater, comedy, music and film festivals, all going under the same umbrella. The spectacular Te Papa Museum of New Zealand, on the city’s pretty waterfront, combines cultural and historical exhibitions with education, entertainment and leisure activities, including a virtual bungy jump. Wellington is also the departure point for ferries across Cook Strait to the South Island.
Excursions
Popular destinations for excursions from Wellington include the Wairarapa wine region, Cape Palliser (whose wild coastline provides a habitat for a large colony of seals) and Kapiti Island, home to a bird sanctuary free of introduced predators where weka, bellbird and tui, to name but a few, show little or no fear and provide photo opportunities of fantastic quality.
South Island Marlborough Sounds
To the north of the South Island, the sheltered waterways of the lush and green region known as Marlborough Sounds attract numerous boating, kayaking, sailing and fishing enthusiasts. The Marlborough province is well known for its wine and food, with world-class, new-world wineries such as Cloudy Bay, Le Brun, Fromm, Highfield, Hunters and Montana to name but a few. The best wines from this area tend to be white, sharp Chardonnay and crisp Sauvignon Blanc. Nearby, Nelson is a sunny and busy small city on the coast, where visitors will find pretty gardens, spectacular beaches and a growing arts community. Besides being an interesting place for art and culture lovers, the city is a good starting point for excursions to the three national parks in the vicinity. The UNESCO-listed Abel Tasman National Park has a rocky coastline, long golden, crescent-shaped beaches, crystal clear water, a seal colony, an abundance of bird life and a fine coastal track – the Abel Tasman Track (three to four days). Nelson Lakes National Park, also on the UNESCO World Heritage list, offers skiing and snowboarding during winter and fishing or sub-alpine walking tracks during the summer. The Kahurangi National Park, another UNESCO World Heritage area, has a selection of walking tracks that offer an extraordinary range of scenery from mountains and karst tablelands to dramatic black-sand beaches on the west coast. The most famous of these is the tough Heaphy Track (four days). The Kaikoura coast, further south, is a world-famous conservation area, sitting opposite a deep water trench full of marine life, and is renowned for boat rides at close quarters with various species of whale and the chance to swim with dolphins.
Christchurch
To the south, on the edge of the flat patchwork quilt of the Canterbury Plains, lies the ‘Garden City’ of Christchurch, the South Island’s largest community. The tree-lined River Avon meanders through the center of the city, which with its public school, old university buildings (now a fantastic arts center) and examples of Neo-Gothic architecture is reminiscent of an old English university town. The central square of the city is occupied by a cathedral which provides a useful landmark for tourists either on foot or using the charming historic trams. About 500m (1640ft) from the square is the vast expanse of Hagley Park, on the borders of which are the Old Canterbury University/Arts Center, the Canterbury Museum, the Robert McDougall Art Gallery, the botanical gardens and Christ’s College. Just a short walk along the river is St Michael and All Angels Church; an unusually beautiful wooden Neo-Gothic building combining French and English styles and containing a mixture of Maori and Catholic elements. For excursions from Christchurch, the nearby Banks Peninsula provides a hilly alternative to the flat city, with a cable car, beaches, boat trips, pods of Hector’s dolphins (unique to New Zealand) and a number of accessible walking tracks. Another alternative is to take a hot air balloon ride and from that vantage point look west across the broad flat plains to the Southern Alps, north to the Kaikoura Ranges and Cook Strait and south down the east coast as far as the historic white-stone city of Oamaru.
Southern Alps
From Christchurch, a single rail line and road lead to the Southern Alps, up over Arthur’s Pass and down the other side to the wild west coast. This is the route of a breathtaking rail journey which can be completed, there and back, in one day on the Tranz Alpine Express. The tiny village of Arthur’s Pass is a good starting point for climbing, canyoning and trekking trips to the UNESCO-listed Arthur’s Pass National Park nearby. The Alps themselves, which can be accessed by five main roads from the east coast, are the spine of the South Island pushed up by plate movement in the earth’s crust. They are larger than the similarly named mountain range in Europe and the spectacular scenery of snowy peaks and glaciers contains unique flora and fauna. The area is dominated by the mighty sagging-tent peak of Mount Cook (3754m/12,313ft), also known by the Maori name Aoraki (cloud piercer). Mount Cook National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage area and contains more than 20 peaks over 3000m (9840ft). Sliding down from one side of Mount Cook is the spectacular Tasman Glacier, one of the longest outside the Himalayas. All types of skiing and snowboarding are available along the Alps with many uncrowded ski fields, including heli-skiing, while around Mount Cook there are a number of stunning lone and guided walking and climbing trips of one to five days.
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